Answering endless requests about the region

It's been a while now that I've been online on various travel forums under my pseudonym 'Kira' ... the name came from Kira-cho, a town in Aichi-ken, Japan where I spent 15 months living and working there for my degree.

I digress ... but on several occasions I've met people and talked to them over the years of travelling around the sub-region and then been asked 'Are you Kira?' ...

So I've set up a group on Facebook to cover all things West African related to travelling, without any touts hopefully!  The group can help and advise others who are in the region.  It's open to all heading that way or who are already there!

Join us by clicking here: West Africa Travellers on Facebook

Long Christmas Day with border troubles

Pulling out of Nouakchott in the early hours, we got a good start.  Hardly any traffic on the roads, we took a while to get out of the sprawling southern suburbs of the city with a quick stop for a coffee and omlette.  The N2 heading south wasn't in good shape, there were potholes all over and parts of the road vanished leaving us to drive along the side, our first bad road since leaving home.  We continued on with crazy minibus drivers racing down to the Senegalese border at Rosso, overtaking us at the most inopportune moments!  Apart from that there were sand dunes, camels and the odd beat up car to contend with; we had both forgotten it was Christmas day until about midday!

National road N2 in the centre of Tiguent heading south towards Rosso & Senegal, first real settlement after Nouakchott

Small Nomadic settlements dotted all over

We finally found our turning to the right, we knew it existed and would take us to Keur Macene but every small right road we found we wondered whether to take it.  Finally there was a fairly major turning with a concrete post (presumably for the police) with quite a few touts around who flagged us down.  They wanted to sell us ECOWAS insurance, the 'brown card' for Senegal and the rest of West Africa, we politely declined and headed west on an impeccably surfaced road.  Very straight, smooth just a few donkeys to contend with.  Franki's fuel gauge was getting rather low, so we tried to find somewhere to pull up and refuel her from the barrel in the back.  The landscape was so barren, there wasn't any shelter or windbreak to get behind the wind that was blowing the fuel out of the funnel. 

Desert refuelling stop

Christophe emptying the barrel, Franki was full again!

Finally we got to Keur Macene, Christophe went off to find lunchtime food and returned with a few bananas and bread.  We continued on, heading west on rough roads that had been graded, either at 15kph or 60kph it was fine, certainly better at 60kph as we entered the Parc National de Diawling where suddenly wildlife was abound in the form of birds and warthogs.  We were on the grated road that ran through the park but noticed Chinese involvement in the park.  We came across warthogs that seemingly weren't too scared of a vehicle then we were flagged down by Jah.  He was a park ranger and wanted a lift 12km away to the headquarters of the park. He gave us a brilliant explanation of the park, the seasons and what could be found in the park.  We had already seen flamingoes and all matter of wildlife, but it was a birdwatchers paradise.

Jah, a park ranger we picked up

Charged 2,000 UM, but tried to get 3,000UM for taking Jah to the HQ of the park!  But we were glad he had been with us!

Having dropped off Jah we only had a few kilometres or so to get to the border at Diama.  We went through Mauritanian immigration and customs fairly simply, however we found that we had to pay to park Franki at the border which intensely annoyed us!  

Getting to the Senegalese border was easy, across the bridge and we were there!  Passports stamped with a suggestion of money which we totally ignored.  Next was customs ... 

Customs was another matter, we knew we could get a 48h transit that could be renewed for up to two weeks in Dakar, we only needed 4 days or so to transit Senegal.  But immediately they wanted 250€ which we weren't prepared to pass over.  Over 5 hours, we even invited the head of customs to join us for coffee.  He came to the back of Franki, sniffed at our camping gas and kettle and walked off again,  I'm someone that NEVER pays any official without an official receipt.  It was Christmas Day but there was a guy in St Louis that would get us over the border with an official receipt, it was for 250€.  Having explored all avenues to get out of paying this knowing we weren't keen on parting with the cash, I've never paid before and I certainly wasn't keen paying now, but apparently the NGO donations were also susceptible and customs were getting sniffy about those too having inspected the back of Franki, we were at a dead end alley!  I managed to get a Senegalese SIM card and rang a few aviation friends in Dakar and just south of St Louis, all disappointed that we were stuck!

We waited a few hours for this man to show up, we were wondering if he would show up at all, St Louis is under an hour away.  Watching a lot of foot passengers passing us to board a boat that apparently was going to Bamako and trying to help out an American-Mauritanian family who spoke very little French. Eventually he arrived, just as Charlie arrived from Mauritania with his family, yet again we were amazed he was risking this trip.  However, he wasn't impressed there was more to pay, his van was also over the 8 year age limit. Having paid we were free to go, we left Charlie in the hands of the 'monster' customs official and hit the road, 5 hours after arriving at the border!

Again we ended up driving in the dark, amazingly I managed to remember the way to Mouit, where the overlanders campsite, Zebrabar, is located on the coast near my friend's house.  I'm not sure if Christophe was convinced by my directions but when we got to the village we were thrilled.  Finally pulling into Zebrabar, we parked Franki under the first tree and got out all our food, chorizo, ham and chocolate from Spain, avocadoes and tangerines from Morocco, bread and 'vache qui rit' cheese from Mauritania ... ordering a beer, we toasted ourselves on Christmas Day!

We also met Oleg, the Russian biker who was very interested in our border troubles!  He hadn't had any bother!  Charlie and family were nowhere to be seen, we wondered what had happened to them!

Southerly or Easterly Decisions

Cold but comfortable, in a bungalow with views to the sea at Camping Terjit

Beside the Atlantic ocean at Camping Terjit, just north of the Port de Peche with all the fishing boats back

Camping Terjit, excellent food prepared by Ivorians

We woke up deciding to have a day off from driving so I could catch up with my former bosses from Civil Aviation and we could decide what to do next.  Christophe had already made up his mind to continue with me, as far as Bamako hopefully.  We had slept reasonably well in a bungalow at Camping Terjit but it was cold outside.  The shower fortunately had hot water but the plumbing was something else, the base of the shower was almost two feet above floor level so getting into it was interesting, getting out whilst wet on tiles was just dangerous!

Setting off into town, we headed for Auberge Sahara knowing we could probably get advice from people there about the Route de l'Espoir.  It's the road that heads east out of Nouakchott, a road I'd never been on but heard lots about, essentially it was the quickest way to Bamako; we knew Ahmed our Ivorian friend from the border was heading that way too.  We also needed to get Malian visas but it was 24th December and therefore the embassy was closed despite several phone calls to consular officials.  However everyone at Auberge Sahara told us that crossing into Mali via Ayoun al Atrous/Nema and this route was off limits in reality, it could be done but could also be dangerous with AQIM in the region.  Christophe was still keen to go, I wasn't keen on dealing with Senegalese officials which was our other choice, to head south.  

My former colleagues joined us at Auberge Sahara, we all sat around the table for a while drinking mint tea and chatting with a French guy staying there.  Both of my colleagues were vehemently against the idea of us going east.  We were then invited for lunch at a colleagues house and drove off in their two cars whilst leaving Franki on the side of the road, the first time we had been parted from Franki!

Suburbian street view

Derby NHS screening outside Auberge Sahara?!

We drove across town separately in the two cars, my more senior colleague relayed recent updates of the aviation industry in Mauritania.  Finally we arrived at an extended family member's home and I was taken up the street to have my hands and feet henna'd, a present from him.  Christophe went off with my other colleague whilst I spent over an hour just getting my hands done, wondering if this will vanish by the time I return to work!

Arriving at my former boss's own home, the four of us sat chatting for some time then served a fantastic lunch of lamb, bread and various side dishes, Mauritanian style.  They were also unhappy we had spent the night at Camping Terjit saying it wasn't the ideal place to stay due to security.  We hadn't been at all worried about staying there but I was used to this hospitality of being safe in their country; it was agreed that they would pay for us to stay elsewhere for the night.

Beautiful henna with scruffy nails

We were taken back to Franki outside Auberge Sahara and told to wait for a call.  We noticed a Chinese registered vehicle, we presumed overlanders judging by the stickers all over it, but never saw it again.  Opposite Auberge Sahara was a cafe where we went and had some more coffee and waited ... for hours, to hear of where we would be staying for the night.  As it was getting dark, with cars screeching up and down the busy road in front of us, mostly boy racers; Christophe suddenly exclaimed 'there's Charlie' ... sure enough their little UK registered van had just driven past us.  So they had decided to continue south, we were shocked!  Expecting them to turn around as Franki was clear for everyone to see on the side of the road, we waited but they had obviously continued on into town.

Eventually my former boss arrived and called me to his car.  He had booked us an apartment next to Auberge Sahara, we were forever grateful, it was perfect for us and in retrospect similarly priced to Camping Terjit.  Christophe took the sumptious sofa in the sitting room, I got the bedroom.  We had a massive bathroom with hot water and a small kitchen, all we needed for our final night in Nouakchott.  We were still undecided as to which route to take, it had been the only topic of conversation between us all day.

Just before midnight, I was asleep but got a phone call, to be told that a Franco-Swiss woman had been kidnapped in Gao, Mali.  If we went via Route de l'Espoir, he would ensure the military turn us around ... the decision had been made for us, Christophe was particularly unhappy as he had no real desire to ever visit Senegal!  Tomorrow was Christmas Day ...

Chinese overlanders?

Stunning apartment next to Auberge Sahara for the night

18,366 Kilometres by Road

If you're afraid of flying, getting home to see Mum in Nigeria when you live in the UK, can't be easy!

A year ago I was contacted by Chinedu for help and advice about a trip to Nigeria from the East Midlands, UK.  I was a bit confused by the situation, here I was telling a Nigerian how to get home, but he'd never been home or attempted a long overland journey!  There were so many questions, particularly in regards to being fearful of completing the trip; however many times I promised him he would love it, he was convinced he was about to travel to hell.



He made the trip, had some wonderful experiences, met a lot of people, travelled many thousands of kilometres and finally made it home, taking scrupulous notes along the way!

The result is a wonderful book of his experiences, the reality of obtaining visas, dealing with transport and having the time of his life.  He didn't just go to Nigeria by road but he returned by road too!

I've never plugged a product on this blog, but Chinedu deserves as many sales as he can get, it's on Kindle as well as a beautiful paperback copy that's sitting proudly in front of me!

https://www.amazon.com/18-366-Kilometres-Road-Adventure-ebook/dp/B01M8MB3J9

Proud to have been able to help him, hoping to see him on a trip south soon!

Proud, is too poor a word ...

Last week I was in Accra, to host the 3rd Annual Conference of Women Aviators in Africa - wafric.org

Despite a lot of difficulties, the conference was a massive success!

Students came from Ghana, Nigeria & elsewhere ...... professionals flew in from Seattle, USA, Dakar, Senegal & Germany, Ireland & other locations - it was a strong show of support both male & female to get more youngsters into aviation; but particularly female aviators from W.Africa.

Proud, is too poor a word.

There were ladies with us who had got there by bus from Lagos, endured hours of surgery for a disablement I've spoken about before; others who had flown in from South Africa, the USA via Nairobi & other locations to meet us and drive forward the presence of women in the avition industry.

Air Commodore Kwame (Victor) Mamphey, Director General of Ghana Civil Aviation Authority made the keynote speech, well received by all, followed by a strong address by Dr John E Tambi, NEPAD (African Union) trying to demystify the concept of women entering the industry.  Following this Patricia Mawuli made an impact on all present with her story of entering the industry & mentoring the three pilots that followed up with their stories.

http://avtechacademy.blogspot.com/2011/10/avtech-at-wafric-conference.html 

Jessica Cox the 'armless' US pilot confirmed at the very last moment on landing at Kotoka, Accra's burgeoning airport and arrived 20minutes later!  Her speech & presence had a profound effect on everyone there.   To see Jessica meet Lydia Westi who had already spoken during the morning session, watching this young 16 year old Ghanaian pilot with one good arm meet Jessica had me in tears.

Lydia is a student at the AvTech Academy, part of www.waasps.com and proving to everyone that if you can dream it, you can believe it, as WAFRIC's President Kajuju Laiboni instills into everyone!  After two days at the Accra conference kindly sponsored by Ghana Civil Aviation at the Fiesta Royale Hotel the third day was an outing for the delegates.

The AvTech Academy www.waasps.com hosted the most incredible day at their Kpong Airfield having been an integral part of our logistics & other crazy matters to get this conference on the road.  It had people talking prior to our arrival and now for days afterwards.  One of the delegates forgot it was his birthday due to the love of flight.  Six international delegates were sponsored by www.waasps.com to fly with their crew!

A few press reviews:

http://www.modernghana.com/news/353540/1/three-more-international-airlines-to-ply-ghanas-ai.html  

http://www.modernghana.com/news/354796/1/gcaa-improves-infrastructure-to-reflect-status.html

http://www.ghanabusinessnews.com/2011/10/02/we-must-see-beyond-people%E2%80%99s-physical-disabilities-%E2%80%93-jessica-cox/ 

The WAFRIC board are so proud of what has been accomplished, to get more young women into aviation, West Africa will be the first WAFRIC chapter with a determined team behind them!

Special thanks have to go to all the ladies in Ghana, Jonathan Porter of www.waasps.com  http://bradtghanaupdate.wordpress.com/2011/10/06/flying-near-akosombo/, Ghana Civil Aviation Authority, Boeing, Aelex Law Firm, Landover (Nigeria), Charles Sablah of 'Put Jah First' & his walking tours of Nima, Accra  http://bradtghanaupdate.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/walking-tours-in-accra!  

Without their support, West African aviation lovers particularly the ladies might not stand a chance of getting their passion across!!!

My only hope is that C.R.E.E.R will get established soon to provide mechanical engineering to youngsters who might want to move into aviation at a later date.

Guinea's 50 years of Independance

I had to laugh when I saw via the press the message sent from North Korea's Kim to Guinea's President Lansana Conte ...

Kim Yong Nam, president of the Presidium of the DPRK Supreme People's Assembly, Monday sent a message of greetings to Lansana Conte, President of Guinea, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of its independence.

Kim in the message noted that over the past five decades since the independence of the country the Guinean people have achieved great successes in the struggle for the national unity and the building of a new society, and the friendly and cooperative relations between the DPRK and Guinea have steadily grown stronger in the interests of the peoples of the two countries.

Kim expressed belief that the good relations between the two countries would further expand and develop in various fields in the future, too, and sincerely wished the president good health and happiness and the Guinean people greater progress and prosperity. http://www.kcna.co.jp/item/2008/200810/news02/20081002-17ee.html

And what 'great successes' have the Guineans had from their two presidents in the last 50years???

Not much, very little in fact ...

Toure ruled with an iron fist & let what was left of the French legacy go to rack & ruin. Conte, the current ailing President is doing a good job of finishing the country off ... The people are being squeezed from every angle, small bribes at every military checkpoint, lack of food, massive inflation, no real utilities; even in the capital, Conakry.

A country filled with natural resources which at this stage are being plundered by the Chinese. A population, full of hope for the future who lost over 100 people on 23rd January 2007 in killings by the army ordered by the President.

When I crossed the border in December 2006, I came from Guinea Bissau. http://deeper-in2-west-africa.blogspot.com . The few kilometres between the two countries gave a stark contrast in the character of the people I got to know whilst on a truck for two days carrying me & 45 Guineans. The Guineans of Guinee Conakry were so friendly & hospitable; they have very little, far poorer than some of their neighbours such as Senegal but so much more open & welcoming.

Leaving the country was hard for me, mentally & physically - the petrol strike had already taken grip. What was even harder was hearing the news of the strikes & killings that went on just after I'd left; knowing that those that were on the truck with me would be somewhere in Guinea, most of them were heading for Conakry after Boke.

I hope that Guinea's next 50years will be easier after the last 50. Conte won't be around forever & if the corruption can be capped; maybe they'll have it a bit easier .....

... but this is Africa where corruption is widespread ...